Balamore and Maramalai Hills

பாலமோர் மற்றும் மாறாமலை

Remote clove estates in the far southern Ghats

You arrive

You leave Keeriparai and the road starts to climb. Maramalai is a remote part of the southern Western Ghats, adjoining the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, and you know you are going somewhere few people go. Often the only way up is by local jeep. The vehicle grinds round the bends, the air cools, and the rich smell of spice trees starts coming in through the open sides. Then the forest opens out into plantation slopes.

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Balamore and Maramalai HillsVerified photograph to be added

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Among the clove trees

You walk out among the plantation rows. Maramalai is known mainly for its clove estates, and Balamore for clove, coffee and spices. These are private working estates and home to the people who keep them, so stay on the track and ask before going anywhere else. Breathe in slowly. You can often smell a spice plantation before you properly see one.

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Balamore and Maramalai HillsVerified photograph to be added

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The high ground

You follow the track to a place where the land falls away. Guided treks link these hills with Kalikesam, about six hours to Balamore, or around 12 km to Maramalai through clove plantations and evergreen woods, according to tour operators. Unless you have arranged one, you do not go further. Stand a while with the green slopes dropping below you, and then start back before the light goes.

Being here

You see

Plantation rows on steep slopes with forest beyond.

You hear

Wind, birds and the occasional jeep engine.

You smell

Clove and damp earth.

You feel

Cool upland air and rough tracks underfoot.

The story

Maramalai is a remote area in the southern Western Ghats, adjoining the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, with Keeriparai named as its base in one account. Travel sources describe it as primarily known for clove plantations, and Balamore for clove, coffee and spice plantations. Published information is limited and comes mainly from tour operators and blogs rather than official bodies. Sources report no tourist accommodation, and transport by local jeep. No official information on entry permits was found for this guide, so check with the Forest Department before going.

Sources: Thrillophilia: Kalikesam to Maramalai trek · Trek Tamil Nadu: Kalikesam Balamore

Photo: Babipal197414 · CC BY-SA 3.0

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