Adikesava Perumal Temple, Thiruvattar

ஆதிகேசவப் பெருமாள் கோவில், திருவட்டாறு

A Vishnu shrine praised by the poet-saint Nammalvar

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You arrive

You come into Thiruvattar, in the inland west of the district, and head for the temple that gives the town its standing. This is a Vaishnava shrine that the poet-saint Nammalvar praised in verse, and it is counted among the 108 Divya Desams, the sacred abodes of Vishnu. You pause at the entrance, leave your footwear behind and step out of the daylight. Ahead, the old walls and shaded halls keep their own slower sense of time.

Adikesava Perumal Temple, Thiruvattar · Photo: Ilya Mauter · CC BY-SA 2.5

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Halls and wall paintings

You walk inside and let your eyes adjust. The district administration singles out the temple's architecture and wall paintings, so look up and along the walls as you go. The colours and figures reward slow attention, and the light is low, so give them time to appear. Move with the devotees rather than against them, and keep your voice down.

Adikesava Perumal Temple, Thiruvattar · Photo: Ilya Mauter · CC BY-SA 2.5

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The legend of Kesan and Kesi

You come near the sanctum, the heart of the place's legend. Tradition holds that the god overcame the demons Kesan and Kesi here, and that is where the name Adikesava finds its meaning for devotees. Stand aside from the queue for a moment and take in the atmosphere. If you can, follow the procession around the shrine with everyone else.

Adikesava Perumal Temple, Thiruvattar · Photo: Ssriram mt · CC BY-SA 4.0

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End of the Shivalaya run

You step out and think about Shivaratri. On that night, devotees travel on foot between twelve Shiva temples around this region, and the district account says they finish at this Vishnu shrine. A Shaiva pilgrimage ending at a Vaishnava temple is a telling detail about the religious life of this corner of India, and it gives this quiet courtyard a place at the end of a long road.

Being here

You see

Old painted walls, deep shade and the flicker of oil lamps.

You hear

Priests' chants and bare feet on stone.

You smell

Sandal paste, flowers and oil lamps.

You feel

Cool stone floors and the closeness of the inner halls.

Look around

The story

The Adikesava Perumal Temple at Thiruvattar is a Vaishnava shrine praised by Nammalvar and listed among the 108 Divya Desams. The district administration notes its architecture and wall paintings. Tradition holds that the deity overcame the demons Kesan and Kesi at this place, and that twelve Shiva temples came to form around Thiruvattar. On Shivaratri, devotees visit all twelve and end their journey at this shrine. Sources differ on the distance from Kanniyakumari: the district page says about 60 km and Trawell says 45 km.

Sources: Kanniyakumari district: Temples, Churches, Masjids · Trawell: Kanyakumari places

Photo: Delight S · CC BY-SA 3.0

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